Results of the Winter 2008/9 Bergmann-Böckli-Marei-4WD-trip to Gebel Uweinat

- Discovery of the Abu Ballas Trail’s last missing link on Egyptian soil -

- THE ROAD to YAM and TEKHEBET (RYT) -

PART ONE

Table of contents

0. Introduction

1. Preceding events

1.1 Spring & fall 1999: The discovery of the RYT between Mery´s rock and Muhattah Umm el-Alamat

1.11 Collaboration agreement with Kuper

1.12 Fall 1999: Introducing the Cologne university pre-historians to my spring 1999 finds

1.13 List of selected waypoints regarding my spring & fall 1999-discoveries in chronological order (2/25/1999 - 11/15/1999)

1.131 Spring 1999: from Gharb el Mawhub to Mery´s rock and to the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

1.132 Spring 1999: From the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road and Mery´s rock to the southwest (up to position N 24 43 12.8 + E 28 06 37.7)

1.133 Spring 1999: Hike back to the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

1.134 Spring 1999: From the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road to N 24 53 56.9 + 28 25 03.9

1.135 Spring 1999: Hike via Muhattah Arbaa´ Maafariq back home to Gharb el-Mawhub

1.136 Fall 1999: Discoveries while introducing the Cologne university pre-historians to my spring 1999 finds

1.14 Summary

1.2 Winter 1999/2000: the discovery of the Road to Yam and Tekhebet (RYT) – continued; leg between Muhattah Jaqub and Muhattah Rashid/”Cone” (N 23 17 48.5 + E 26 31 04.9)

1.21 Preparations & winter 1999/2000 expedition program

1.22 List of selected waypoints regarding my discoveries in chronological order (12/8/1999 - 3/12/2000)

1.221 Survey to the northeast of Mery´s rock (12/8/1999 – 12/22/1999)

1.222 Camel expedition to the Gilf Kebir: list of selected waypoints regarding my discoveries in chronological order (1/8/2000 - 3/12/2000

1.222.1 From Muhattah Jaqub to Abu Ballas

1.222.2 From Abu Ballas to “Cone”

1.222.3 Hike back; from “Cone” to “Seehundplaya”

1.222.4 Muhattah Fatima revisited

1.222.5 Returning to “Seehundplaya”

1.222.6 From “Seehundplaya” to Muhattah Jaqub

1.222.7 From Muhattah Jaqub to Muhattah el-Askeri

1.222.8 From Muhattah el-Askeri via Dakhla airport to the fringes of the agricultural area near Ain Safra

1.222.9 From the agricultural area at Ain Safra back to the Dakhla – Bir Terfawi asphalt road

1.23 Summary

0. Introduction

With the discovery of a hieroglyphic inscription bearing the cartouche of Mentuhotep II at Gebel Uweinat made by Mark Borda and Mahmoud Marai in November 2007 (picture 1) during one of Borda´s surveys, and with the mapping of parts of the Abu Ballas Trail’s (TAB) last missing link on Egyptian soil during the Bergmann-Böckli-Marai-4WD-trip to Gebel Uweinat my presumption as published in my “Letzter Beduine” and also on this website, claiming that Ain Asil, the 6^th dynasty oasis capital of Dakhla, was connected with Gebel Uweinat via the TAB (C. Bergmann, Der letzte Beduine, Reinbek 2001, p. 407), has been substantiated.

picture 1: hieroglyphic inscription at Gebel Uweinat mentioning

  Yam and Tekhebet (by courtesy of Mahmoud Marai) To the right a processed version.

The Mentuhotep inscription reads as follows (J. Clayton, A. d. Trafford, M. Borda: A hieroglyphic inscription found at Jebel Uweinat mentioning Yam and Tekhebet. Sahara 19 (2008) p. 123):

“Son of Ra, Mentuhotep – King of Upper

and Lower Egypt – Horus living for ever –

Yam bringing incense – Tekhebet

bringing….”

Surprisingly, the text reveals two geographical locations, the land of Yam and the land of Tekhebet. Whilst the latter is as yet, unattested in other hieroglyphic writing (ibidem, p. 129), the former is known from the 6^th dynasty tombs of Harkhuf in Aswan and of Weni in Abydos, and its geographical position has been misleadingly assigned to a “.. location between the 1^st and 2^nd cataracts… further south than… Tumas, most likely also west of the Nile or… on either side of it… and south of the oases” (K. P. Kuhlmann: The oasis bypath or the issue of desert trade in pharaonic times, in Heinrich Barth Institut, Tides of the desert – Gezeiten der Wüste, Köln 2001, pp. 141,142). One reason for this misconception may be that, due to their social backgrounds, which are mainly upper or upper middle class, Egyptologists have for a century confused their own physically exhausting experiences in this region with the fitness levels of the ancients (e.g. Harkhuf or Weni and their followers) and have considerably underestimated the abilities of these people to travel to far away destinations even under unfavourable environmental conditions.

That the TAB continues from Gebel Uweinat further to the southwest is already indicated by the geographical position of the Mentuhotep II inscription site which is located on the south of Gebel Uweinat. Where does it lead to? Most probably to Yam and/or to Tekhebet! Although it is a prominent muhattah along the route, the pottery hill of Abu Ballas, from which the trail gets it’s name, must be viewed as just one amongst many of the road’s way stations.

So in the light of the new discoveries, the current name of the ancient road is neither appropriate nor accurate. In fact, it has definitely become obsolete. Therefore, a more suitable name is suggested:” The road to Yam & Tekhebet” (RYT). This denomination will be used from now on.

Because of the aforementioned discoveries, a better understanding of this ancient road with regard to its destination, use, and function is now revealed. In order to present this precious mosaic of knowledge as a whole and from the explorer’s perspective it seems worthwhile (before going into the details of last winter’s endeavours) to sum up what has been achieved on my previous attempts to track the ancient trail. This exercise is all the more warranted on account of the efforts of R. Kuper and his associates (as well as a few others mentioned in an attachment to this report) who have been constantly sidelining my findings and in a few cases, have illicitly published such discoveries under their own name.

The most recent case involving Kuper´s et al. malpractices refers to my discovery of Wilkinson’s 2^nd Zerzoora/Biar Jaqub. I discovered this “lost” oasis which contains an astonishing array of proto-hieroglyphs and the biggest rock art archive between Dakhla Oasis and the Gilf Kebir, in February/March 2001. The publication of my finds in GEO magazine (Germany) scheduled for winter 2002, was prevented by the intervention of Kuper, Kuhlmann and Kröpelin. Since then I did not succeed in releasing any of my texts in a journal. Thanks to the internet, these three individuals and their helpers did not succeed in muzzling me completely. However, as I was unable to publish any of my discoveries in acknowledged media, the facts soon fell pray to Kuper et al. and these guys either cannibalised my findings or exploited them in a way that sidelined my endeavours. Such was the case with regard to Biar Jaqub.

In an article “Wo die Steine sprechen” which appeared in the October 2008 issue of National Geographic Germany (where Kuper is a scientific advisor), Kuper´s aid, Peter Schönfeld, claims that he and his colleagues were the first after thousands of years, to see the petroglyphs there, in particular, water mountain signs, a hunting scene with giraffes and a big sun boat (pp. 50 – 52). I had discovered these depictions in Feb./March 2001 (water mountain signs), in Feb. 2002 (hunting scene) and in 11/25/2003 (sun boat; on which occasion I was accompanied by Johannes Kieninger). Nowhere at the sites of discovery nor in their surroundings were footprints or car tracks of previous visitors to be seen. In May 2003 I had posted my manuscript dealing with the discovery of Biar Jaqub (originally written for GEO) including a catalogue of pictures (“Bildergalerie”), on the internet. With this article, written in German, my website was inaugurated. Further Biar Jaqub discoveries were presented on the 5/20/2004 in the article entitled “results of winter 2003/2004 – expedition”, which amongst other things contains reports about water mountain “ideograms” and a newly found site named “field-temple” (including a pictogram of a sun boat).

My vague hint regarding the geographical position of the “field temple” led Giancarlo Negro to the site. Negro, an editor of Sahara magazine, who may have communicated the waypoint of the “field-temple” to Kuper, published a paper concerning this and other sites and acknowledged me as its discoverer (M. Morelli, A. Buzzigoli, G. Negro, Segnalazione di nuovi siti d´arte rupestre nel Great Sand Sea egiziano. Sahara 17 (2006) pp 177 – 180). Why can’t Kuper and his associates do the same? The answer given by one of Kuper´s aids is plain and simple: “If you look at the history of African exploration, sometimes those men would fight almost to the death,” says Stefan Kröpelin, a geologist with the Arid Climate, Adaptation and Cultural Innovation in Africa (ACACIA) unit at the University of Cologne. “It looks as if this tradition continues with Carlo.” (E. Young, Pharaohs from the stone age. New Scientist, 13 January 2007, p. 34) 

The account presented in chapter 1 serves also to compensate for the missing winter 1998/1999; winter 1999/2000 and winter 2000/2001 - expedition reports. So far, lack of time has hindered me from writing and from posting suitable texts regarding these reconnaissance’s on my website. Furthermore, because of the adversities described above this report does not deal solely with my finds but also provides insights into the circumstances of the various discoveries.

Of the more than 1,800 GPS-waypoints only the most significant ones are listed here. Except for a few cases geographical positions of road signs (alamat) which make up the bulk of my waypoints are omitted in this report.

1. Preceding events

1.1 Spring & fall 1999: The discovery of the RYT (Road to Yam & Tekhebet) between Mery´s rock and Muhattah Umm el-Alamat

1.11 Collaboration agreement with Kuper

I had discovered the first leg of the RYT, the section that stretches between Mery´s rock (N 25 15.222 + E 28 51.706; pictures 2 + 3) and Muahttah Jaqub, in the spring of 1999.

pictures 2 + 3: Mery´s rock and inscription of Mery

In those days no water dumps were available in the desert to support my explorations. This handicap limited the scope of the survey. Furthermore, from the furthest survey point in the south-west I had to walk 130 kilometres to reach the asphalt road connecting Dakhla Oasis with Bir Terfawi, where my friend Muhamed Abd el Hamid Achmed Ranem and his comrades were waiting with supplies of water, food and feed on a pre-arranged date. (picture 4). After watering my camels (Rashid, Ashan, Muscat and Fatima) and leaving the asphalt road to continue the search, we firstly had to cross the dune belt west of the road which caused much suffering to the animals as there had been not enough time for them to absorb the water properly. In addition, the beasts were heavily loaded; also carrying jerry cans of water for themselves. On one occasion, this undue strain lead to Muscat’s breakdown. Although the survey produced astonishing results (I detected seven muhattahs, 20 pottery sites, a site containing pharaonic period engravings and two pharaonic desert police stations.) a way to ease the supply problem had to be found, if I were to continue the search further south-west.

picture 4: from left to right: Gamal Saber, Muhamed Abd el Hamid Achmed Ranem

 and Nafer waiting with supplies of water, food and feed at the

Dakhla –Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

In the summer 1986 Kuper, the head of a group of pre-historians excavating in the Egyptian and the Sudanese part of the Libyan desert, revealed to me the location of two of his water dumps which had been abandoned in the Sudan. In exchange I would provide information about the finds expected to accrue during my 4,300 kilometres long desert hike which I undertook in the winter 1986/87. For this reason he had equipped me with plastic pouches, measuring tape, spatula and assessment sheets. (pictures 5 + 6) One of his depots situated at Burg at Tuyur, Sudan (pictures 7 + 8), facilitated the crossing of a 1010 kilometre waterless stretch of desert; from the latter dump via Gebel Uweinat (pictures 9 + 10) and Abu Ballas (picture 11) to Bir Abu Munqar, Egypt. During this expedition, my first ideas about an ancient donkey trail linked to the pottery hill of Abu Ballas took shape as reported in my book “Der letzte Beduine”. (C. Bergmann, Der letzte Beduine, Reinbek 2001, pp. 121 –366)

picture 5: B.O.S. - plastic pouches, spatula etc.

picture 6: B.O.S. assessment sheet & my handwriting

picture 7: pictogram of a cow at Burg et Tuyur   

picture 8: Kuper´s water dump at Burg et Tuyur

picture 9: my caravan on the camel trail winding along the eastern escarpment of Gebel Uweinat.

The trail is indicated in Count Almasy´s book “Unbekannte Sahara”, Leipzig 1939, p. 141

picture 10: midday rest in Karkur Talh

picture 11: 2/13/1987: temporarily detained by the Harras el-Hadud at Abu Ballas.

In the background my camel Hassan

Water in exchange for discoveries. Could such cooperation be established once again? I went to Kuper and revealed my waypoints obtained from the newly found sites. Stressing my desire to continue the search for the RYT, I expressed the expectation that the ancient trail would continue at least up to Gebel Uweinat. (ibidem, p. 407) To my relief, the request for a logistic support, based on the 1986-agreement, was accepted.

1.12 Fall 1999: Introducing the Cologne university pre-historians to my spring 1999 finds

In November 1999 I guided Kuper and his team to RYT-way stations which I had found the spring before, and to some sites where the ancient trail was still to be seen. (pictures 12+ 13) Uwe George of GEO magazine, Germany, a desert enthusiast in charge of expeditions handled by the journal, was with us. I was on assignment to write a report about any new RYT discoveries which may have emerged. To ensure success I partly, led the caravan of cars along a projected extension of the RYT between Muhattah Jaqub and Abu Ballas based on the alignment I had discovered. Soon this undertaking yielded a positive result. I spotted a tall alam (cairn, way sign) built on a low rocky shelf. After having dumped water and fodder at a distance, we approached the cairn which, at its southeastern rock base, was littered with RYT-type potsherds. The locality which I named Muhattah Umm el-Alamat was linked by the ancient road. Only now did Uwe George became convinced that what I had discovered was not a mere smuggler’s trail.

pictures 12 + 13: two locations where the RYT is still visible

1.13 List of selected waypoints regarding my spring & fall 1999-discoveries in chronological order (2/25/1999 - 11/15/1999)

1.131 Spring 1999: from Gharb el Mawhub to Mery´s rock and the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

2/25/1999: N 25 26 27.7 + E 28 45 24.1 (pharaonic desert police station. Water jars, Claytons, head rests, a hieroglyphic inscription, pharaonic period graffiti, bones & other organic remains dating to the 4^th , 6^th & 26^th Dynasties and to Sheikh Muftah cultural unit times. Published by H. Riemer, F. Förster, S. Hendrickx, S. Nußbaum, B. Eichhorn, N. Pölrath, P. Schönfeld, G. Wagner. Zwei pharaonische Wüstenstationen südwestlich von Dakhla. MDAIK 61 (2005) pp. 291 – 350, pictures 14 + 15)

picture 14: inscription, neck of a 26 dyn. jar and head rest at the pharaonic desert police station

picture 15: pharaonic desert police station viewed from the top

1.132 Spring 1999: From the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road and Mery´s rock to the southwest up to position N 24 43 12.8 + E 28 06 37.7

a.) 2/28/1999: N 25 14 09.5 + E 28 50 28.3 (first pieces of RYT-pottery found 2.9 km southwest of Mery´s rock; picture 16)

picture 16: first RYT potsherd found 2.9 km southwest of Mery picture 17: pharaonic period graffiti

picture 18: bearing line pointing to Abu Ballas

b.) 3/2/1999: N 25 00 57.4 + 28 37 36.2 (short bearing line consisting of three erected stones pointing at 234 degrees; picture 18)

c.) 3/2/ 1999: N 24 58 55.0 + E 28 36 33.9 (old pottery and rock art consisting of pharaonic motifs; picture 17)

1.133 Spring 1999: Hike back to the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

a.) 3/5/1999: N 24 49 31.9+E 28 18 24.0 (Muhattah Jaqub, pictures 19 - 22)

picture 19: Old Kingdom water jars at Muhattah Jaqub   picture 20: myself and Rashid. Muscat and Fatima in the background.

picture 21: my inscription scratched into a rock face at Muhattah Jaqub  picture 22: Jacob, my son & Sahara

b.) 3/6/1999: N 24 52 00.8 + E 28 22 24.8 (Muhattah el-Homareen;

pictures 23 - 25)

picture 23: Muahttah el Homareen        picture 24: detail; string belonging to a saddlebag, 3,230 +/- 50 years old

picture 25: Muhattah el Homareen; jar with image of two sitting donkeys,

 the name givers of the way station. (by courtesy of Uwe George)

c.) 3/6/1999: N 24 52 17.1 + E 28 22 50.8 (RYT-potsherds)

d.) 3/6/1999: N 24 54 30.9 + E 28 25 47.4 (old pottery deposited at the foot of a hill; picture26)

picture 26: Islamic period(?) pottery

e.) 3/7/1999: N 24 58 34.0 + E 28 28 06.9 (RYT-potsherds & stone circle)

f.) 3/7/1999: N 24 58 56.1 + E 28 28 20.6 (old resting place, alam, three RYT-water jars & a few greenish glazed Islamic period potsherds)

g.) 3/7/1999: N 24 58 49.4 + E 28 28 18.0 (RYT potsherds next to Muhattah amphorae; see 1.134.i.)

h.) 3/8/1999: N 25 00 14.0 + E 28 36 55.2 (bearing line)

i.) 3/8/1999: N 25 03 01.3 + E 28 37 59.8 (rock art including steatopygous human figures (pictures 27 + 28); in the vicinity stone tools, Neolithic pottery and stone circles)

picture 27 +28: steatopygeous figures

j.) 3/8/1999: N 25 06 20.3 + E 28 39 05.8 (RYT-potsherds)

k.) 3/9/1999: N 25 08 10.0 + E 28 41 48.5 (ancient resting places, stone circles, RYT-potsherds)

l.) 3/9/1999: N 25 08 33.0 + E 28 42 41.7 (old potsherds)

m.) 3/9/1999: N 25 08 39.3 + E 28 43 03.1 (RYT-potsherds)

n.) 3/9/1999: N 25 09 11.3 + E 28 44 32.5 (old potsherds)

o.) 3/9/1999: N 25 11 13.6 + E 28 48 14.4 (Khasin el-Agais; 13 stone circles, pictures 29 + 30)

pictures 29: Khasin el-Agais, detail      picture 30: Khasin el-Agais, detail

p.) 3/9/1999: N 25 11 59.8 + E 28 49 27.6 (potsherds)

q.) 3/9/1999: N 25 12 10.8 + E 28 49 47.2 (RYT-potsherds)

r.) 3/10/1999: N 25 10 42.4 + E 28 51 53.2 (potsherds)

s.) 3/10/1999: N 25 10 53.1 + E 28 53 01.8 (empty Khasin)

1.134 Spring 1999: From the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road to N 24 53 56.9 + 28 25 03.9

a.) 3/12/1999: N 25 10 10.9 + E 28 45 19.6 (potsherd)

b.) 3/12/1999: N 25 09 22.2 + E 28 41 11.8 (windsreen)

c.) 3/13/1999: N 25 09 12.2 + E 28 44 00.8 (windscreen)

d.) 3/13/1999: N 25 07 57.4 + E 28 41 40.5; N 25 07 54. 9 + E 28 41 35.8 (many stone circles) 

e.) 3/13/1999: N 25 06 56.1 + E 28 39 54.9 (large windscreen in the neighbourhood of a tamarix bush)

f.) 3/13/1999: N 25 05 40.8 + E 28 38 37.8 (RYT-potsherd & stone circle settlement; picture 31)

picture 31: stone circle settlement

g.) 3/13/1999: N 25 03 32.9 + E 28 36 20.8 (Muhattah Arbaa´ Maafariq; RYT-potsherds, Clayton discs, “swastika”-wasm; pictures 32 - 34)

picture 32: Muhattah Arbaa´ Maafariq from the distance

picture 33: Clayton disc    picture 34: depiction of a “swastika”

h.) 3/14/1999: N 25 00 59.3 + E 28 31 41.8 (Muhattah Harding King; RYT potsherds, rock art including an image of a donkey(?); pictures 35 - 38)

picture 35: Muhattah Harding King viewed from the distance   picture 36: potsherd with wasm (pot mark)

picture 37: this pot mark and a “swastika” is also carved into a rock face  picture 38: image of a donkey(?)

i.) 3/15/1999: N 24 58 49.8 + E 28 28 18.9 (Muhattah Amphorae; 38 amphorae; picture 39)

picture 39: Muhattah Amphorae

j.) 3/15/1999: N 24 54 18.3 + E 28 25 29.2 (old potsherd)

k.) 3/15/1999: N 24 53 56.9 + E 28 25 03.9 (RYT-potsherds)

1.135 Spring 1999: Hike via Muhattah Arbaa´ Maafariq back home to Gharb el-Mawhub

a.) 3/16/1999: N 24 59 25.1 + E 28 31 08.0 (blackish potsherds)

b.) 3/17/1999: N 25 04 12.6 + 28 37 01.4 (alignment of stones, “ground plan” of a house? picture 40)

picture 40: “ground plan” of a house?

c.) 3/17/1999: N 25 04 22.2 + 28 37 10.5 (double line of stones, 7m long)

On the way to my house in Gharb el-Mawhub, I discovered three additional stone circle settlements, a pottery site and another pharaonic desert police station. The position of the latter is given here as:

d.) 3/19/1999: N 25 25 18.7 + 28 44 41.2 (pharaonic desert police station. Potsherds, one Clayton, pharaonic period graffiti & organic remains dating to Sheikh Muftah cultural unit times, to the 5^th , 6^th, 26^th dynasties & to the First Intermediate Period. Published by H. Riemer, F. Förster, S. Hendrickx, S. Nußbaum, B. Eichhorn, N. Pölrath, P. Schönfeld, G. Wagner. Zwei pharaonische Wüstenstationen südwestlich von Dakhla. MDAIK 61 (2005) pp. 291 – 350; pictures 41 + 42) The site is only 2.42 kilometres afar from the pharaonic desert police station itemised under 1.131.

picture 41: pharaonic desert police station picture 42: depictions of vulvae and a pharaonic human figure

1.136 Fall 1999: Discoveries while introducing the Cologne university pre-historians to my spring 1999 finds

a.) 11/15/1999: N 24 35 33.3 + E 27 53 06.4 (stone circle settlement)

b.) 11/15/1999: N 24 41 26.7 + 28 06 44.4 (Muhattah Umm el-Alamat; circa 50 jars; picture 43)

picture 43: Muhattah Umm el-Alamat 

1.14 Summary

Contrary to Kuhlmann´s appraisal, the early Middle Kingdom inscription at Mery´s rock (picture 3) indicates that senior officials sent by the ancient Egyptian oasis governor at Ain Asil/Dakhla had themselves been on the road, and the RYT desert passage had not just been used by military personnel or Bedouin subcontractors of the governor or even by smugglers. Up to now, my survey has substantiated such traffic as far as Muhattah Jaqub. Where however, would the final destination be? The Mery inscription fogs this issue by voicing the following: “Year 23: Setting out by the superintendent Mery to meet the oasis dwellers.” (G. Burkard, Inscription in the Dakhla region. Text, translation and comments. Sahara 9 (1997) pp. 152-155) My findings revealed an alignment of roughly 235 degree for the ancient trail, thus clarifying the vague content of Mery´s text and suggesting that the road most probably, would lead at least up to Gebel Uweinat.

Challenging the term “to meet” in Burkard´s translation and instead, proposing the meanings “to repulse” or “to search for” Kuhlmann however, postulates that the “… inscription provides the strongest argument yet against the Abu Ballas Trail (RYT) constituting an Egyptian trade route towards the Gilf al-Kabir, the Kufra Oases or even beyond.” (K. P. Kuhlmann: The oasis bypath or the issue of desert trade in pharaonic times. Manuscript. Later published in: Heinrich Barth Institut, Tides of the desert – Gezeiten der Wüste, Köln 2001, p. 156) After posing the hypothetical question, “did Mery venture over 50 km into the desert in order to go looking for a mining detail comprised of local labour and to bring back its produce?” (ibidem) Kuhlmann postulates: “The only conceivable reason why (Mery) should have gone out this far into the desert was to pre-empt the hostile – or at least undesirable – foreign (oasis dwellers´ or bands of ragtag barbarians´, e.g. nomadic cattle herders´) further advance towards Dakhla.” He then continues: “Had Mery been engaged in peaceful activities with them, e.g. trade, the latter is likely to have taken place in the oasis itself or at some designated “souk” in its immediate vicinity”, thus Kuhlmann concludes: “This important inscription provides historic proof that the nomads populating the Gilf al-Kabir – the legendary “oasis” of Zarzura – or maybe even the Kufra Oases travelled the .. (RYT) .. to reach the Egyptian oases.” (ibidem, p. 157)

Notwithstanding Kuhlmann´s conjectures, the following emerges: Contrary to the ineffective endeavours of Kuper and others, the first-ever survey of the RYT yielded quite a sizable number of sites containing well preserved-water jars and potsherds belonging to the pharaonic period. These discoveries reveal that within a corridor which is marked by the RYT and its side tracks, the desert southwest of Dakhla seems to be virtually scattered with artefacts attesting to an ongoing traffic which lasted from around the 6^th dynasty to Islamic times.

Further exploration is needed to uncover the travel patterns, the survival strategies, the final destination and the de facto purpose of the RYT used by the ancient desert wayfarers (For instance, what was the use of so called Clayton rings which were found at almost all RYT-way stations.).

picture 44: map of expedition 1998/99 showing the course of the RYT

 between Mery´s rock and Muhattah Jaqub

1.2 Winter 1999/2000: the discovery of the Road to Yam and Tekhebet (RYT) - continued

- leg between Muhattah Jaqub and Muhattah Rashid/”Cone” (N 23 17 48.5 + E 26 31 04.9) -

1.21 Preparations & winter 1999/2000 expedition program

I was not present when on the 11/19/1999, in order to facilitate the resumption of my RYT-survey farther in the southwest, members of Kuper´s staff came to my house in Bir Hamsa and picked up 30 jerry cans of water, two sacks of sorghum and one sack of dried beans as fodder for my camels. Neither was there an opportunity for me to join these cooperative people at the time they set up my dumps in the desert. Instead, a day before Christmas Kuper had given me the four waypoints where he planned to deposit my provisions, inviting me to supply an additional five jerry cans and a sack of camel feed which later, in case of need, would be carried by 4WD into the area of my search. I could have hugged him for his kindness!

My hike to the Gilf Kebir was scheduled to begin on 1/8/2000. By then, the desert-permit (valid from 9/20/1999 to 11/16/1999) which Kuper had handed out to me (on 12/23/1999), had already expired. Thus, in case I was caught any Egyptian officer would consider my expedition illegal. However, for the sake of performing the task this risk and the uncertainty resulting from the fact that I had not seen the dumps with my own eyes before leaving, had to be shouldered. I started on the designated day, alone with four camels (Amur, Maqfi, Rashid and Fatima).

Previous to the Gilf Kebir expedition I had set out to survey the area to the northeast of Mery´s rock. On this journey, which lasted from 12/8/1999 to 12/22/1999, Ellen Nagel accompanied me. Muscat, Rashid, Ashan and Sahara were with us and carried our luggage.

1.22 List of selected waypoints regarding my discoveries in chronological order (12/8/1999 - 3/12/2000)

1.221 Survey to the northeast of Mery´s rock (12/8/1999 – 12/22/1999)

a.) 12/13/1999: N 25 16 17.8 + E 28 54 48.1 (windscreen)

b.) 12/14/1999: N 25 16 52.5 + E 28 54 57.5 (alignment of rocks oriented 250/70 degrees)

c.) 12/14/1999: N 25 19 02.1 + E 28 57 31.6 (old potsherds of approx. 8-10 water jars, ridden over by Kuper and soon after, glued together by him and his wife, picture 45 + 46)

pictures 45 + 46: details of approx. 8-10 water jars

d.) 12/16/1999: N 25 17 45 5 + 28 54 14.3 (Muhattah el-Askeri 1-6; RYT & Islamic period-potsherds, kitchenware, Claytons, metal tools, windscreens, alignments of stones, camel bones; pictures 47 - 53. Kuper´s main route to Abu Ballas passing by the small but prominent rock outcrops approx. 200 m to the south.)

picture 47: Muhattah el-Askeri viewed from the south; in the foreground enigmatic stone alignments

picture 48: stone alignments at Muhattah el Askeri viewed from the north

picture 49: metal tools in situ

picture 50: metal tools and piece of granite - close up       picture 51: specimen of Bos primigenius

                                                                                                                  depicted at Muhattah el-Askeri

pictures 52 + 53: Example of Neolithic rock art and potsherds at Muhattah el-Askeri

e.) 12/16/1999: N 25 18 57.1 + E 28 54 32.3 (two windscreens)

f.) 12/16/1999: N 25 21 50.6 + E 28 56 16.2 (windscreen)

g.) 12/16/1999: N 25 21 58.0 + E 28 56 22.9 (two windscreens; picture 54)

picture 54: windscreens 2.3 km NNO of Muhattah el-Askeri

h.) 12/17/1999: N 25 20 02.3 + E 28 54 58.8 (pile of stones & potsherds)

i.) 12/17/1999: N 25 16 52.7 + E 28 51 52.6 (hill with rock shelter, Neolithic rock art and potsherds, first visited in winter 1997/98)

In addition, several alamat marking the RYT, a further rock art site, one Clayton- and 17 pottery sites, three graves, five stone circle settlements, two singular stone circles and three linear alignments of stones were noticed. All these items were found off the ancient road.

1.222 Camel expedition to the Gilf Kebir: list of selected waypoints regarding my discoveries in chronological order (1/8/2000 - 3/12/2000

1.222.1 From Muhattah Jaqub to Abu Ballas

a.) 1/13/2000: N 24 44 12.5 + 28 11 31.5 (windscreen)

b.) 1/13/2000: N 24 42 40.9 + E 28 08 42.9 (alignment of rocks pointing 233 degrees)

c.) 1/13/2000: N 24 42 33.6 + E 28 08 28.3 (windscreen)

d.) 1/14/2000: N 24 39 05.7 + E 28 03 22.6 (alam & alignment of rocks)

e.) 1/14/2000: N 24 39 00.0 + E 28 03 11.6 (alignment of stones pointing 226 degrees)

f.) 1/14/2000: N 24 38 52.3 + E 28 02 59.9 (alam & windscreen)

g.) 1/14/2000: N 24 38 24.0 + E 28 02 18.0 (single, well-preserved RYT-water jar; picture 55)

picture 55: single RYT- water jar, in situ, on rocky ground

h.) 1/14/2000: N 24 38 11.8 + E 28 02 15.1 (alam & alignment of rocks)

i.) 1/14/2000: N 24 37 33.7 + 28 00 38.7 (Khasin Ashan, including a site at a sandstone hill 130 metres to the south exhibiting a “swastika”. Some RYT-potsherds scattered at its foot. pictures 56 + 58)

picture 56: Khasin Ashan     picture 57: detail      picture 58: my camel Ashan and a friend

j.) 1/14/2000: N 24 36 22.0 + 27 59 27.7 (Khasin el-Ali: RYT-pottery, kitchen ware, rock art, alignment of rocks in an almost right angle – one arm pointing 240 degrees, the other pointing 153 degrees; pictures 58 - 60)

picture 58: alignment of rocks in an almost right angle at Khasin el-Ali 

picture 59: Neolithic rock art   picture 60: part of a RYT-water jar deposited in the hill’s slope

k.) 1/15/2000: N 24 34 30.3 + E 27 57 58.9 (Muhattah Muscat; Alam plus RYT-pottery and two windscreens; pictures 61-63)

picture 61: Muhattah Muscat (hill to the right crowned by an alam )

picture 62: potsherds at Muhattah Muscat

picture 63: In the foreground my camel Muscat. A few years later

he was bitten by a sand-viper and died.

l.) 1/15/2000: N 24 34 16.9 + E 27 57 52.3 (two hunting fences)

m.) 1/15/2000: N 24 34 05.0 + 27 57 34.2 (alignment of 7 stones pointing 210 degrees)

n.) 1/15/2000: N 24 33 39.6 + E 27 57 20.1 (alignment of 6 stones pointing 210 degrees)

o.) 1/15/2000: N 24 32 28.8 + E 27 56 22.7 (Bint Ballas; potsherds belonging to circa 50 amphorae and ovoid shaped water jars; pictures 64 – 67)

picture 64: Bint Ballas       picture 65: my inscription

pictures 66 + 67: eroded jars and potsherds at Bint Ballas

p.) 1/17/2000: N 24 32 15.1 + E 27 52 09.0 (alamat & stone circle settlement on top of hill. Abu Ballas visible in 25 km.)

r.) 1/17/2000: N 24 33 08.2 + E 27 52 20.5 (hunting fences)

s.) 1/17/2000: N 24 33 41.2 + E 27 52 20.7 (two hunting fences)

t.) 1/17/2000: N 24 35 41.4 + E 27 53 04.7 (rock art near stone circle settlement; picture 68)

picture 68: Neolithic rock art, stone circle settlement in

the background (on the flat expanse) 

u.) 1/18/2000: N 24 35 02.7 + E 27 53 56.3 (alam & hunting fence)

v.) 1/18/2000: N 24 34 17.7 + E 27 55 31.0 (RYT-potsherds)

w.) 1/18/2000: N 24 30 41.1 + E 27 49 56.6 (windscreen)

x.) 1/19/2000: N 24 27 45.6 + 27 42 45.2 (alam & three windscreens)

y.) 1/20/2000: Abu Ballas (pictures 69-71)

picture 69: View from the top of the Abu Ballas pottery hill to the southwest. Below my caravan.

picture 70:hunting scene at Abu Ballas  picture 71: racing motor cyclist (Pharaoh’s rally) approaching Abu Ballas

1.222.2 From Abu Ballas to “Cone”

a.) 2/1/2000: N 23 38 06.3 + E 26 43 56.8 (small “horse shoe” stone structure)

b.) 2/1/2000: N 23 32 49.8 + E 26 37 40.1 (Khasin Berlin; pictures 72 + 73)

Before setting out on my winter 1999/2000 expedition Kuper had handed me a black & white Xerox-copy showing an ancient water jar deposit. (picture 72) He narrated the following story: 18 years ago, Pohlmann, a university geologist from Berlin, had run into a number of old, well preserved jars somewhere in the eastern forelands of the Gilf Kebir plateau. The man did not map the site and later, had forgotten where it was located. Kuper and other insiders searched in vain for the pots.

picture 72: Xerox copy of Pohlmann´s photographs showing a number

 of “lost”, old & well preserved jars dumped somewhere in the

eastern forelands of the Gilf Kebir.

The ancient track indeed led my small caravan to the lost jars which I verified with Kuper´s Xerox-copy which I had kept in my breast pocket. I named the storage site “Khasin Berlin” in honour of Pohlmann. (picture 73)

picture 69: Amur and Rashid grazing at Khasin Berlin

c.) 2/2/2000: N 23 29 27.7 + E 26 34 01.9 (Muhattah Rashid; pictures 74 - 77)

picture 74: Muhattah Rashid    picture 75: two eroded RYT water jars

picture 76: the same water jars with “Two Tits” in the background.  picture 77: Rashid at young age

d.) 2/8/2000: N 23 16 26.6 + 26 30 39.2 (four RYT-potsherds; picture 78)

picture 78: two of the four RYT-potsherds 

e.) 2/9/2000: N 23 17 49.5 + E 26 31 09.8 (RYT-potsherds at the foot of “Cone”, picture 79)

picture 79: one out of a handful of RYT-sherds found at the foot of “Cone”

1.222.3 Hike back; from “Cone” to “Seehundplaya”

a.) 2/10/2000: N 23 34 59.3 + 26 40 13.8 (three alamat & one stone circle)

b.) 2/10/2000: N 23 37 01.0 + E 26 42 20.0 (natural alam; meeting with Uwe George, Raoul Schrott, Stefan Kröpelin, Wolf Köppler & Christian Jung; picture 80)

picture 80: meeting with Uwe George et al.

On 2/6/2000 I had watered my camels at the mouth of Wadi el-Bakht, where Kuper had dumped a scarce 80 litres of water for my caravan. Despite the animals still being thirsty, there was no problem for us to make it to the next dump at Kuper´s “Seehundplaya”-deposit which had been set up southwest of Abu Ballas (at about 165 kilometres distance from Wadi el-Bakht). To waste no time, I just would have to refrain from thoroughly surveying the ancient trail.

GEO magazine had equipped me with a satellite phone. I knew that Uwe George et al. were in the area. For two days, my endeavours to contact him via GEO´s head office in Hamburg failed. The phone’s batteries were almost empty when I finally, managed to communicate my geographical position.

When Uwe George et al. appeared carrying as a present parts of my supplies arranged for in December 1999 (see chapter 1.21), the camels swallowed down another 90 litres thus, quenching their thirst completely. Thereafter, the satisfied beasts took a sand bath and kept resting relaxed on their side as usual. (picture 81) Uwe took photographs of this exercise and later, by far exaggerating the case, wrote that the animals had been in great danger. (U. George, Der Stein des Tutanchamun. GEO 10 (2000) pp. 30,31) In December 2000, Raoul Schrott fell back on that line claiming that my camels had been on the verge of dying. (R. Schrott, Glanz zwischen Falb und Ocker – der Sand, das Gedächtnis der Zeit. Süddeutsche Zeitung, No. 297, 27th Dec. 2000, p. V2/4) For me, this false interpretation led to accusations from a few animal right activists, who claimed that my beloved beasts were notoriously impelled to walk and to work too much. In addition, years after, Kroepelin & Kuper also made a story out of it and claimed to have saved me from dying of thirst. (E. Young, Pharaohs from the stone age, New Scientist, 13^th January 2007, p. 37) In fact, more than the shortage of water, I was troubled by a lack of food provisions. This is why I had agreed to meet the motorists again (on 2/18/2000 at “Seehundplaya”) when, on their way back to Dakhla Oasis, it would be clear to them which of their food stuff could be spared. To my astonishment, a meeting point in the vicinity of latitude 24 degrees which would have saved me a lot of walking, was rejected on grounds that according to a brief look at the British map, the area concerned (“very rough”, “rough going”) was considered not feasible to be traversed by cars.

Our meeting place (picture 80) was close to Khasin Berlin. As the motorists had approached me from this direction, I asked if they had noticed the jars. They had not. All but one mounted the cars. I led them to the location. When Uwe George saw the storage site, he was startled saying that his team had passed the place at about 200 metres to the south. “Motorists see nothing as long as they don’t leave their cars”, he sighed.

picture 81: relaxing camels at midday rest             picture 82: windscreen at southeastern foot of low hill

c.) 2/11/2000: N 23 39 27.9 + E 26 45 07.0 (windscreen at south-eastern foot of low hill; 5 x 3.5 m; picture 82)

d.) 2/11/2000: N 23 39 38.8 + E 26 45 22.8 (stone constructions in small rock shelter; picture 83)

picture 83: stone construction in small rock shelter

e.) 2/11/2000: N 23 40 49.5 + E 26 46 49.2 (6 windscreens)

f.) 2/12/2000: N 28 42 51.7 + E 26 49 29.3 (stone circle, opening towards 150 degrees)

g.) 2/12/2000: N 23 42 57.6 + E 26 49 47.2 (windscreen protecting against southern winds)

h.) 2/12/2000: N 23 44 09.7 + E 26 51 23.6 (stone circle; picture 84)

picture 84: stone circle

i.) 2/12/2000: N 23 44 37.5 + E 26 52 07.8 (alignment of rocks pointing 50/230 degrees)

j.) 2/13/2000: N 23 48 44.3 + E 26 57 41.0 (stone circle)

k.) 2/14/2000: N 23 55 03.1 + E 27 05 03.2 (stone circle settlement)

l.) 2/14/2000: N 23 54 13.6 + E 27 04 24.2 (alam plus empty khasin)

m.) 2/15/2000: N 23 57 22.9 + 27 06 43.1 (stone circle)

n.) 2/16/2000: N 24 01 57.0 + E 27 11 32.6 (Muhattah Fatima; stone tools & RYT-pottery. Car tracks of the Samir Lama & Theodore Monod expedition passing by half a dozen eroded jars at only 2.5 m distance. pictures 85 - 90. Before reaching the way station the ancient trail as shown in picture 91 as well as Lama’s 4WD-tracks were visible several times.)

            picture 85: heavily eroded RYT-pottery at Muhattah Fatima; Lama’s faint car tracks to the left

            picture 86: my inscription

pictures 87 – 89: one potsherd bearing a wasm and two wind-eroded pots at Muhattah Fatima

picture 90: In the foreground my camel Fatima. Behind her Mabrouka. A few months after this photograph was taken the latter mare died of a snake bite.

picture 91: the ancient trail and two alamat

o.) 2/18/2000: At the motorist’s camp set up in the vicinity of Kupers dump at “Seehundplaya”. (picture 92) The men were in a hurry. Two hours after my arrival the cars headed towards civilization. The additional food obtained from Raoul Schrott facilitated another inspection of the ancient trail up to Muhattah Fatima.

picture 92: Kuper´s friendly note at the Seehundplaya dump

1.222.4 Muhattah Fatima revisited

a.) 2/19/2000: N 24 16 26.9 + 27 23 04.6 (alam at the foot of the Abu Ballas Scarp indicating the ascent of the ancient trail; picture 93)

picture 93: alam at the foot of Abu Ballas Scarp indicating the ascent of the ancient trail

b.) 2/20/2000: N 24 13 19.7 + E 27 20 36.3 (alignment of stones)

c.) 2/20/2000: N 24 11 58.9 + E 27 18 48.0 (3 stone circles on top of a hill & old potsherds)

d.) 2/20/2000: N 24 12 04.1 + E 27 18 46.0 (Muhattah el-Bir; RYT-pottery, stone circles, wind screens & Neolithic rock art; pictures 94 - 99)

picture 94: Muhattah el-Bir; both hills connected by an alignment of stones

picture 95: windscreen at Muhattah el-Bir      picture 96: my inscription

pictures 97 + 98: old potsherds and stone circle at Muhattah el-Bir

picture 99: RYT-potsherd

e.) 2/20/2000: N 24 11 02.6 + E 27 18 11.3 (well built alam on top of a small hill; picture 100)

picture 100: well built alam on hilltop

f.) 2/20/2000: N 24 08 19.7 + E 27 15 37.2 (alam & stone circle; picture 101)

picture 101: stone circle on hilltop – night camp of 2/20/2000

g.) 2/21/2000: Muhattah Fatima (discovery of additional potsherd sites.)

1.222.5 Returning to “Seehundplaya”

a.) 2/23/2000: N 24 17 20.1 + E 27 23 03.4 (Abu Ballas Scarp: Six stone circles on top of a flat hill situated in the ascent of the ancient trail. pictures 102 + 103)

picture 102: view to the north; two out of six stone circles on top of a flat hill

picture 103: view to the south; one out of six stone circles on top of a flat hill

b.) 2/23/2000: N 24 17 38.3 + E 27 22 59.7 (stone circle)

c.) 2/25/2000: N 24 21 02.2 + E 27 27 45.6 (wind screen

1.222.6 From “Seehundplaya” to Muhattah Jaqub

a.) 2/26/2000: N 24 27 45.6 + E 27 42 45.2 (three windscreens & alignment of stones oriented 59/239 degrees; Abu Ballas in 6.9 km distance at 245 degrees)

b.) 2/27/200: N 24 31 45.8 + E 27 51 22.7 (double line of stones oriented 60/240 degrees and ground plan of two “buildings” measuring 8x4 and 3x7 m etc. Abu Ballas in 23.3 km distance at 242 degrees. Muhattah? pictures 104 - 107)

pictures 104 - 107: remains of a muhattah(?) 23 km northeast of Abu Ballas

c.) 2/27/2000: N 24 33 37.0 + E 27 55 53.9 (small stone circle & alam; picture 108)

picture 108: small stone circle & alam

d.) 2/27/2000: N 24 33 08.6 + E 27 55 55.1 (cluster of hunting fences)

e.) 2/28/2000: N 24 35 39.8 + E 27 58 18.4 (alignments of stones, 100 m long, oriented 50/230 degrees)

f.) 2/29/2000: N 24 34 56.0 + E 27 59 51.1 (two stone circles)

g.) 3/1/2000: N 24 40 27.3 + E 28 07 13.4 (hunting fence)

h.) 3/1/2000: N 24 40 34.9 + E 28 06 56.4 (hunting fence)

i.) 3/1/2000: N 24 39 43.6 + E 28 07 31.1 (stone circle & alam on hill)

j.) 3/2/2000: N 24 40 51.7 + E 28 07 12.9 (two stone circles on hill top)

k.) 3/2/2000: N 24 42 54.9 + E 28 08 50.7 (two wind screens)

l.) 3/2/2000: N 24 44 14.1 + E 28 11 31.6 (wind screen)

m.) 3/3/2000: N 24 47 37.4 + E 28 16 16.2 (14 wind screens and additional stacks of rock; picture 109)

picture 109: small windscreen containing potsherds

n.) 3/3/2000: N 24 47 41.6 + E 28 16 24.0 (stone circle & alam)

o.) 3/3/2000: N 24 47 44.3 + E 28 16 24.7 (round plot “paved” with rocks & alam)

p.) 3/3/2000: N 24 48 19.8 + E 28 17 27.6 (stone circle partly covered with sand)

q.) 3/3/2000: N 24 48 25.9 + E 28 17 33.3 (camel bones & RYT-potsherds; pictures 110 + 111)

pictures 110 + 111: camel bones

r.) 3/3/2000: Muhattah Jaqub (Pottery removed by Kuper and transported to Dakhla. Clayton disk & fragment of a pitcher missed by the Cologne pre-historians. pictures 112 + 113)

pictures 112 + 113: fragment of a pitcher

1.222.7 From Muhattah Jaqub to Muhattah el-Askeri

a.) 3/4/2000: Muhattah el Homaren (pottery & saddle bag removed by Kuper)

b.) 3/4/2000: N 24 52 46.3 + E 28 29 19.5 (two stone circles)

c.) 3/6/2000: N 25 08 34.0 + E 28 40 18.3 (stone circles & red potsherds),

N 25 08 33.9 + E 28 40 12.1 (stone circle settlement), N 25 08 40.7 + 28 40 24.6 (stone circle settlement)

d.) 3/6/2000: N 25 10 40.7 + E 28 41 36.1 (stone circle)

e.) 3/7/2000: N 25 16 48.7 + E 28 50 25.9 (metal spearhead; picture 114)

picture 114: metal spearhead

f.) 3/7/2000: N 25 17 42.8 + E 28 53 21.3 (empty Khasin & alam)

1.222.8 From Muhattah el-Askeri via Dakhla airport to the fringes of the agricultural area near Ain Safra

a.) 3/8/2000: N 25 22 48.2 + E 28 57 51.4 (Muhattah Amur. RYT-potsherds, pharaonic and Greek period graffiti; pictures 115 - 125)

picture 115: Muhattah Amur                                          picture 116: RYT-potsherds

picture 117: counter lines of two feet containing Greek names

picture 118: Pharaonic graffiti

picture 119: counter lines of two feet and Arabic text

pictures 120 + 121: Pharaonic graffiti

picture 122: game trap and hunting spear; Coptic inscription below  picture 123: overall view of “footprints”

picture 124: my inscription            picture 125: my beloved camel Amur

b.) 3/9/2000: N 25 22 42.0 + E 28 58 24.1 (single RYT-water jar with two handles found circa 1 km afar from Muhattah Amur; picture 126 )

picture 126: single RYT-water jar with two handles

c.) 3/9/2000: N 25 23 33.2 + E 28 58 49.6 (Dakhla airport; at eastern fence of runway; picture 127)

picture 127: this is where the ancient trail enters the airport grounds

d.) 3/9/2000: N 25 25 26.3 + E 29 03 18.0 (Khasin & potsherds)

e.) 3/9/2000: N 25 25 33.2 + E 29 03 18.0 (potsherds; empty Khasin at the neighbouring hill - N 25 25 38.3 + E 29 03 18.9)

f.) 3/9/2000: N 25 27 04.3 + E 29 04 11.1 (thin, red potsherd & alam)

g.) 3/9/2000: N 25 26 49.0 + E 29 05 03.8 (hillock with RYT-potsherds and rock art including image of a ship & graffiti; pictures 128 - 131)

Pictures 128 – 131: hillock with RYT-potsherds and rock art

h.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 12.8 + E 29 05 17.3 (stone circle)

i.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 35.6 + E 29 05 51.8 (graffiti & rock art)

j.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 48.6 + E 29 07 44.4 (graffiti & RYT-potsherds among presently indeterminable ceramic)

k.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 39.6 + E 29 07 37.8 (potsherds & rock art including depictions of vulvae and a “swastika”; pictures 132 - 134)

pictures 132 – 134: depictions of vulvae, counter lines of feet and a “swastika”

l.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 37.6 + E 29 07 28.3 (potsherd; pharaonic & Neolithic rock art)

m.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 45.5 + E 29 07 22.1 (few old potsherds)

n.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 34.2 + E 29 07 15.0 (potsherds)

o.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 37.3 + E 29 07 13.8 (potsherds & graffiti)

p.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 44.9 + E 29 07 13.2 (potsherd with handle)

q.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 45.3 + E 29 07 17.1 (potsherd & graffiti)

r.) 3/10/2000: N 25 27 39.2 + E 29 07 31.0 (Muhattah Maqfi; RYT-pottery, pharaonic and Greek graffiti covering the hill from its foot to the top; largest pottery site east of the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road; pictures 135 - 146)

picture 135: Muhattah Maqfi, windscreen, view from the hill top     picture 136: windscreen - detail

picture 137: windscreen – detail  picture 138: another Pharaonic figure  picture 139: Pharaonic graffiti

picture 140: depiction of a Greek “horn – altar”. At the lower left the depiction of a libation pool.

picture 141: Two Greek “horn altars” and a counter line of a foot indicating prayers of wayfarers

 before setting off for their desert journey.

picture 142: Pharaonic graffiti

picture 143: fragment of a piece of rock art possibly displaying the depiction of a residence

picture 144: My beloved camel Maqfi. In 2003 he got bitten by a sand-viper and died.

picture 145: depictions of the Egyptian god Seth and a counter line of a sandal indicating prayers of wayfarers before setting off for a desert journey.

picture 146: my inscription

s.) 3/11/ 2000: N 25 29 28.3 + E 29 10 19.2 (End of our advance. Catching sight of green fields ahead. Thus, abandoning the exploration of the ancient trail 5.33 km southwest of Ain Safra.)

1.222.9 From the agricultural area at Ain Safra back to the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road

a.) 3/11/2000: N 25 28 34.3 + E 29 08 58.7 (alam & potsherds)

b.) 3/11/2000: N 25 27 25.7 + E 29 07 02.9 (potsherds & graffiti)

c.) 3/11/2000: N 25 26 30.0 + E 29 05 08.6 (Khasin containing RYT-potsherds)

d.) 3/12/2000: N 25 25 26.5 + E 29 03 20.1 (two Khasins & RYT-potsherds)

e.) 3/12/2000: N 25 25 24.4 + E 29 03 22.4 (potsherd)

f.) 3/12/2000: Live artillery shell a few 100 metres east of the Dakhla – Bir Tarfawi asphalt road.

Arriving at the asphalt: Just skin and bones, I was too weak to march another 130 kilometres to my house in Bir Hamsa. Thus, we loaded the camels on Gamal Saber´s truck. (picture 147) Four hours later my caravan was back home.

picture 147: from right to left: Rashid, Maqfi and Fatima

P.S.: From near Ain Safra to the Dakhla – Bir Terfawi asphalt road a multitude of trails heading for the south were crossed. No record was kept, neither of these nor of two routes aiming towards the east-southeast.

1.23 Summary

So far, my surveys of spring & fall 1999 and winter 1999/2000 have yielded more than 1,000 waypoints, most of them marking the geographic positions of cairns (alamat). They attest to the fact that the RYT indeed starts from Ain Asil/Dakhla Oasis and heads straight to the southern section of the Gilf Kebir plateau. Not the slightest indication for a turnoff to Kufra was found.

Although I had handed out almost all of my notes to Kuper and his team (A few waypoints representing promising Clayton ring sites were withheld for own further research.) a year later, Kuper published an essay claiming that Mery probably had travelled to Kufra (R. Kuper: By donkey train to Kufra? – How Mr. Mery went west. Antiquity 75 (2001) pp. 801, 802) thus, preferring to copy old unproven speculations of Count Almasy, v. der Esch, Höllriegel and others (L.E. Almasy, Unbekannte Sahara, Leipzig 1939; H. v.d. Esch, Wenak – die Karawane ruft, Leipzig 1941; A. Hoellriegel, Zarzura - die Oase der kleinen Vögel, Zürich 1938) rather than to acknowledge the new evidence to it’s fullest extent.

Taking its previous bearing, viz. 235 degrees, for granted I had not succeeded in finding the continuation of the RYT southwest of Muhattah Rashid. Nonetheless, a few 6^th dynasty potsherds were seen in the neighbourhood of “Cone” (1.222.2 d + e). Although their style & fabric corresponded with the pottery at Abu Ballas and at Muhattah Jaqub, to my astonishment, a few months later, R. Kuper and his aid, Gregor Wagner, interpreted the items as Late Neolithic ware. Such diverging opinion confused my conception regarding the further routing of the ancient trail. Would the RYT follow the eastern outskirts of the Gilf Kebir towards Gebel Uweinat or would it, strictly holding to the southwest, climb and traverse the plateau? Any future survey would have to tackle these questions, answers to which, could perhaps be found by those taking the trouble to undertake a scrupulous search by foot.

The three maps below (pictures 148 – 150) should give a first impression of what has been accomplished on this expedition.

pictures 148 + 149: winter 1999/2000: expedition maps No. 1 + 2 revealing the alignment of the RYT and its major sites

picture 150: winter 1999/2000: expedition map No. 3

- leg of the ancient trail between the asphalt road and Ain Safra -

Sehlis 7/12/2009

Carlo Bergmann

- to be continued -